June 11, 2017, Day 21, Tompkins Campsite to Chaplin, Saskatchewan. 183.4 km

3:50 am. It’s still dark outside and I’m awake. Charlie, beside me, says softly, “Are you awake? He knows I am. You learn the pattern of each other’s breathing, each other’s movements when you’ve slept beside someone for years.  Still, I remain silent, pretending to sleep, wanting more than I’ve had, postponing getting out of my warm sleeping bag until the last possible moment. The alarm is set for 4:30. A ridiculous hour  when you’re on holiday, really, but this is not a holiday. We have places to go and the earlier the better. Prairie winds appear to be stronger later in the day and if you are cycling against them, there’s a whole lot of going nowhere. Today though, the wind is predicted to go with us.

Damp. It hadn’t rained in the night but we could feel the moisture in the air. We packed everything up, no small endeaver. The Thermarest pads have to be deflated and flattened, rolled up and placed inside our waterproof bag. They are joined, after a tussle, by our sleeping bags, made tight and small in their compression sacs. Collapse the tent, shake it out and pack it away. Everything goes on the bike. Bungee cording the sleeping bag securely to the back rack takes a lot of energy. Clothing goes in separate panniers; you want to know where to look when you need something. And we did. On went our rain gear. Thar she pours! Breakfast was once again eaten in the bathroom. Wash up, brush your teeth and hit the road.

All this fresh air and exercise, clean living…..and I have a cold! For the past 2 days it’s mainly been in my head, but now it’s moved down to my throat and chest. I cough and with each exertion I feel spent. As I pounded along I found myself fantasizing about things like, a bed with fresh sheets, strawberry-rhubarb pie, A&W bacon and eggs with hash browns, toast with jam and coffee! Oh yeah! I caught up to Charlie and told him I’d buy him a second breakfast at A&W in Swift Current. It was 85km from Tompkins and we got there at 10:55. They advertise all-day breakfast but when my turn to order came up at about 11:03, I was told that, no, we couldn’t get bacon and eggs. Breakfast was over but we could still order a breakfast sandwich. Nooooo! Not the same! Well, I bought Charlie 2 breakfast sandwiches and I had a teen burger, (they have never asked me for ID or proof of being a teenager. I used to be nervous ordering them when I was a preteen.) We shared fries then jumped back on our bikes headed east. 

I can fly! The wind was strong and with us. It felt effortless! Suddenly I got my energy back and we rode! We wanted to take every advantage of the wind power. I wish I could ride hands off so that I could sit up, spread my MEC windbreaker and soar! We weren’t sure how far we could get; Charlie was concerned for me as he knew I wasn’t well, but we passed Herbert and stopped for food in Morse. When we left the store a motorcycle man held the door open for me. You just never know, eh? There’s more to this story…..

We headed to Chaplin, which is about 85km west of Moose Jaw. We planned on staying at one of the two hotels we’d read were available there. We had our delicious meal with us. Pitas, Campbell’s Chicken Pot Pie Soup in cans, Cliff bars, a staple. I won’t be able to look at one once this trip is done. Chaplin was about 183 km from where we’d started that day and enough was enough. Time to get to our hotel and rest. Except…. both hotels were closed. No wonder no one had answered the phone when we’d tried to call. Now what? We’re there any B&B’s in town?   It was quiet. No one was about as we drove through the streets. Charlie spotted an open garage door and rode up to speak with the person inside to ask them about accommodation in town. Two men, Ross and his boss, Colin, were sitting in the back of the garage drinking beer, and yes, they were the motorcycle men who had spotted us before at the grocery store in Morse and on the highway. Within minutes of talking with them, Ross’s wife came out to talk with me and next thing we know, she’s showing me downstairs to a spare room, handing me a towel for a shower and making us dinner! And what a dinner! Steak and chicken, baked potatoes with sour cream, peas, salad, buns, wine and beer.  Unbelievable and totally unexpected blessing! (We did leave them some money to cover what we’d consumed, but we were very surprised and grateful for their generosity.) Thank you Melanie and Ross. We will gladly host you next time you’re in Calgary!

People are so good. How can I express my appreciation?

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