August 8th, 2017, Day 78, East Bay to Sydney River, Cape Breton. 22km

“Go ahead, if you’d like. It’s not a great shower but it’s a shower. You can go in and have one if you’d like.”

I didn’t need a second invitation. This from our camping host, Dale, of “Chippin’ Dales” famous fish and chips. We’d gotten up later than usual and were dressed and packing up our sleeping bags, tent and personal items. We showered, then hung out a bit as Dale lamented his current love life and showed us pictures of his daughter and son, his properties, and his graduation pictures from years ago. He asked us to stay another night and while we enjoyed his company, we really did have to go. But we didn’t have to go far. 

The sky was dark all day. We didn’t need rain gear but we hàd it at hand. Hills again ahead. Nothing too killer though. All-in-all, a pretty relaxed day.

Tim Hortons really is that iconic gathering place/coffee house and, once again, we spent some quality time alone together there. The day wore on and we stayed put, both of us content and focused on our electronics. An hour or so before we were expected by our “Warm Showers ” hosts, we reluctantly peeled ourselves off the plastic seats and headed to the grocery store. Once there we purchased food to make a salad and some things for lunch for the following day.

Sydney on Cape Breton Island does not appear to be a prosperous city. Buildings are generally old and in need of TLC, or more. Even the downtown area and boardwalks  where people disembark from cruise ships, itching to spend their money, are in shoddy shape. There’s not much to see and there’s nothing much that people would want to buy. Charlie and I discussed how unimpressed we’d be with a stop in Sydney if we were on a cruise. As we were headed to our hosts home, Charlie in front, me tailing about 6 metres behind, a guy opened his car door directly in front of Charlie. Charlie was knocked off balance, tried to recover and failed, landing on his back. His head, fortunately helmeted, cracked hard against the pavement and the bike fell on top of him. If the next car had been going faster it would have driven right over him, but thankfully it was moving slowly and was able to stop in time. Charlie was on his feet pretty quickly and I ran to help him, checking him out head to toe. He had a cut at the back of his right leg but otherwise seemed ok.   The guy who “doored” him said, “Sorry , my bad” before he disappeared into the adjacent smoke shop. I took pictures of his car and licence plate, then waited outside for him to come back out. No sign of him. I looked in the window. There he was , so I motioned for him to come out. He ignored me, so I motioned for him to come out again. Finally he did and I asked him why, after injuring someone he hadn’t stuck around to make sure that the person was alright. He avoided answering, instead calling me a dick head. Anyway, he drove off. Charlie felt fine but because sometimes injuries become more painful later he decided to call the police to make a report. Three emergency vehicles showed up, with a total of 7 people. The EMS checked Charlie out and he was, as we knew, fine. He declined a hospital visit and we went on our way. We just wanted it on record should a problem arise later in relation to this injury. The EMS and police were very kind and professional.

Chantal and Aria are celebrating 25 years together this year.  They’ve lived in Finland,  Aria’s homeland, Africa and in several different areas across Canada. Sydney, Cape Breton, has been home for them and their two children for 3 years now and they’re considering another move in the near future. They said they weren’t expecting us until the next day but that coming today was way better for them anyway. Phew! They made us feel very much at home, directing us to an attic bedroom, pointing out a shower and when we were both clean and shiny again, putting a beer in our hands. It was from a local brewery ( they are springing up everywhere! ) Anyway, this one was from “Spruce Tree Brewery” and it tasted just like a spruce tree. 😫 Aria made pasta carbonara while I made a salad. Their adopted son Felix, age about 9, was very enthusiastic about it, especially the bacon.  The family has a big ol’ dog named Murphy and 2 guinea pigs. I told Felix how the Inca people believe that the gods gave the people guinea pigs to them for food and that in Peru, guinea pigs are a food staple. Felix ran over to his guinea pigs and said ” You are NEVER going to Peru!” It was quite cute.

After a lovely dinner we enjoyed some conversation in the living room before heading to the attic.  I awoke several times during the night and heard the rain pounding outside. Thanks to Chantal and Aria, we were snug and comfy on the inside. Tomorrow we will ride to North Sydney and then take a 16 hour  ferry to Argentia, Newfoundland. We’ve been planning this for years and now it’s going to happen. So exciting!